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In 1991 I had the opportunity to visit a Karen sub-group village
near the
Thai/Burmese border in Mae Hong Son Province in North West Thailand.
The Karen peoples of Burma consist of many sub-groups. This particular
sub-group (Padaung) practices neck banding amongst their women.
The group is also referred to as "long neck" but as I
understand it this is incorrect as their necks do not elongate but rather the shoulders are
pushed down. Nevertheless the result is striking if not disarming.
Some would argue perverse.
Finding the village was interesting. My Thai
guides had obtained a hand drawn map from the local constabulary in
Mae Hong Son which took us along a windy road through a hilly rural
scene of fields, groups of homes and small villages until leaving the
last village the road came to an abrupt end at a river's edge. A track
appeared to continue on the other side of the river. At this
point we wondered if we'd made a wrong turn earlier. Where we stopped
at the river's edge there were a group of women with bundles and bags
abundant. As it turned out they were from another Karen group speaking
a regional dialect that mingled both Thai and Burmese languages. There
was a lot of hand signing between my Thai guides and the women but we
understood enough that they'd welcome a ride and yes, this was
the route we sought to the "long neck" village. It was the dry season
and the river a trickle. We crossed it easily.
We gathered that the group was returning to
their village with purchases of staples. Both air con units fought a
loosing battle with the heat in the cabin as the smell of spices
mingled with naphtha mixed with too many people in too small a space.
As I slowly followed the trail into what quickly became a tight ravine
where deep dried tire ruts in the track bore witness of those who'd
ventured this way during the wet season. It was low gear and slow
going navigating the tops of the ruts until some thirty minutes later
when we came to a fork in the track. We would go left to the village
that was our destination while our passengers got out to continue on
foot to their village.
Update 2020
I understand today the road continues over
the river connecting this and several other village in the area. Much
has been said about the explicit tourism and exploitation. 30
years ago these women warmly welcomed me into their homes, each in her
unique way chose to pose before my camera. It was a rare privilege in
my photographic career.
At the time and
until this webpage none of the images were intended nor published. My edit includes 28 images and is part of
my life long visual exploration of the world around me through
photography.
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