DIY 8MM FILM SCANNER

This project began when Dave asked me if I had any use for an old film projector. It was both 8mm and Super8 capable. I thought of that box of old films and tapes I've been schlepping around for more years than I care to remember and said yes. I was thinking of using a digital video camera to record the film being rear projected onto a fresnel or ground glass screen. The resulting digital video I could then burn to DVD. My tests results were disappointing and led me to more research and a much longer project.

8mm film was an amateur film format developed by Kodak in 1932. It was based on a film width of 8mm with sprocket perforations along one edge. It was designated as Standard 8 but commonly referred to as just 8mm. There evolved several variations based on this film width (Super 8, Single 8, Straight 8, UltraPan 8, Polavision). Originally, all films were reversal (positive) type. Super8 Sound films were coated with a magnetic recording oxide along the edge opposite the perforations edge. Commonly a "balancing stripe", to equalize the thickness of the film on a spool, was also coated between the sprockets and image which was experimented with for Stereo recording. At this writing Kodak continues to offer Super8 film stock and recently the first new Super8 camera since the 1980's has become available. [Logmar S8]

Since I had Standard8 (8mm) and Super8 films, my project concerned itself with these two types.

In my research I quickly realized that I was not alone. Thank you to all those who preceded me in such endeavours and for sharing your experiences on your websites, all of which I found informative and useful. In particular, James McGarvey's solution gave me pause while at the same time encouraged me.

Retro Telecine
Super 8
A Homemade Telecine Machine
Telecine Film to Digital Video


There are professional machines available as there are professional services of excellent quality. Some time after I built my machine a friend tells me that a machine is now available from B&H for under $1800 that will produce a 1080p AVI from Super8 film.

My attempt cost less than $100 and is much more modest using only hand held tools and the following parts:

  • Projector
    Richo Trioscope 1200S Silent 8mm/Super8
    Donor from Dave $0

  • Sensor, lens and software from a USB Webcam kit. 1280x1024 RGB 8bit Bitmap 3.75MB still image Electronics Store $14.95

  • Pocket LED flashlight, 4.5V 9 LED
    Hardware Store $3.99

  • Motor, 7.5V DC drill (no battery, broken handle) Thrift Shop $12.00

  • PS2 mouse (missing tracking ball)
    Thrift Shop $1

  • Two 115V AC/DC selectable voltage adapters.
    Electronics Store $37.45

  • Pulse Width Modulator (PWM)
    eBay online from Hong Kong $12.35

    Miscellaneous hardware

Add $128 for sound. To capture Super 8 sound I found on eBay a B&H Filmosonic projector which had an analog sound output jack.

 

 

 

The film width is the same for both 8mm and Super8
(7.90 mm / 0.311 inch).

The image widths and heights differ.

8mm:  4.5 x 3.3 mm or 0.177 x 0.130 inch
Super8:  5.79 x 4.01mm or 0.228 x 0.158 inch

Actual image size comparison
rounded to nearest pixel at 96 dpi.
8mm (left) Super8 (right)
 

 

Enlarged film frames comparison.
8mm (left) Super8 (right)

 

 

 

 

     
 
 

DESCRIPTION

My design was influenced principally by the projector's physical attributes. In this case access to the film gate was easier from what was originally the the lamp position. Because of this the image would need to be reversed either during capture or in post production.  My first prototype used two brass plates, one for the sensor and one for the lens. Visualize if you will a micro view camera. In a bench setup this proved to be a working solution. However implementation proved impossible without having to discard half the projector (literally cutting it in half) and migrating the take-up reel. Trying to approach from the front (original projector lens position) with a lens/sensor assembly such as this was prevented because the assembly could not be brought to centre on the film gate. This led me to consider the tiny plastic lens that came with the webcam. It proved to offer a solution.

The digital capture process I decided to use was a step and repeat one where the transport of the film (the projector) signaled the software/sensor when to make an exposure via a left mouse click trigger. Experimentation showed that the software/sensor took just under a second to record the image information, flush its buffer and be ready to record another image. I allowed 1 second. During this time the claw was completely disengaged from the film sprocket. This effectively determined the speed of the film transport. At this speed it took about another second for the film transport to move another film frame into position in the film gate. A 50 foot reel is about 3600 frames x 2 seconds = 7200 seconds / 60 = 120 minutes. Thus the word "fast" will never apply to this machine. It is slow but the capture process can be stopped and accurately resumed at will. In what follows is the solution I ended up building.

I removed all parts of the projector that were superfluous (lens, motor, switch, light housing, electrical harnesses, etc). The stripped projector was then securely bolted to a wooden base that would also hold the adapted transport motor.

An old cordless 7.5 Volt DC drill powers the mechanical transport. The broken handle and the trigger/switching components were removed. The drill housing was modified to attach to the wood base and be able to pivot to adjust pulley tension as needed. The DC motor's speed can be controlled by a pulse width modulator (PWM). The motor is wired to the motor side of the PWM.  The rubber pulley belt is salvage from an old VCR player.

The motor pulley wheel is nothing more than two steel washers with a rubber one between secured by a nut on a threaded bolt held fast in the drill's chuck.

The film transport system had a pulley/shutter combination where 3 shutter blades were an integral part of the pulley. The pulley was needed but the shutter blades were not. Further, to gain closer access to the film gate by the lens/sensor assembly the shutter blades needed to come off in any case.

The projector pulley would now also serve to trigger a mouse click. The solution used two pieces of plastic (milk jug) one of which was had a slot cut out. Between the two a piece of brass shim was sandwiched. The assembly was glued to the pulley wheel using double sided tape after first synchronizing position with the position of the film claw, i.e., at the point when a film frame has been moved into position and the claw has fully disengaged from the film's sprocket hole. Two copper contacts close the circuit when they come in contact with the brass shim triggering a left mouse click. The contacts are wired to the mouse circuit board with a toggle switch en-route which allows turning the trigger off.

Since the projector was designed for both 8mm and Super8 it had two gate windows that slid into place via a mechanical selector knob that at the same time engaged the appropriate sprocket wheels. The film gate assembly was removed and both the openings were filed larger to expose more of the film frame image.

View of enlarged film gate
 

 

The original 4 short bolts that held the film gate assembly in place were replaced with longer threaded bolts which would be used to both hold the film gate assembly and the spring loaded lens/sensor assembly.

The rubber elastic provides tension on the film gate's pressure plate. The alligator clip holds translucent plastic cut from from a tote lid to act as a light diffuser. The galvanized tube holds and channels the light from the LED flashlight.

A brass lens/sensor plate was built to provide two axis of shift. The plate was held firm by 4 springs over the 4 bolts that together with the plate's loose fit bolt holes allowed a small amount of swing/tilt. This made centering and aligning the assembly with the film image in the gate easier.

The plastic webcam lens came mounted in a threaded tube that allowed for manual focusing and although it could focus down to about 30 cm this was not close enough for the purpose I had in mind. Essentially my solution was to use an extension tube. The search was to find a suitable diameter plastic tube that could be press-fitted between the sensor and lens. I found it in a cap for a dry eraser marker.

The next step was tedious as in order to determine the correct distance between sensor, lens and film took trial and error which meant removing and remounting the assembly numerous times. Likewise press fitting the lens into the extension tube and insuring it was parallel to the sensor plane. I had no idea what the focal length of the plastic webcam lens was. Measuring the sensor diagonal and estimating the angle of view of the webcam lens gave me some figures to do some rough calculations which helped me get into the zone but getting on target took trial and error tweaking. The effort was compounded since there was no physical lens iris (f-stop) to increase depth of field.

The flashlight housing is nothing more than a sheet of thin galvanized steel (roof flashing) bent to form an incomplete tube. One end of this tube was fitted inside the cast sleeve once occupied by the original lens. The flashlight was fitted inside this tube at the other end. This allowed the flashlight to be moved closer/further to/from the film gate to control light intensity. 

Pocket 9 LED flashlight wired to AC/DC adapter.

Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) controls speed of motor. Mini toggle switch to the right of it interrupts trigger signal to mouse. Bolt to left of PWM facilitates adjusting mouse trigger contact pressure.

 

 

A Kodak slide box holds the PS2 mouse circuit board. Power from AC/DC selectable voltage adapters for motor and light.

CAPTURE SOFTWARE

I used the ArcSoft capture software that came with the Nexxtech* webcam kit to setup the sensor/chipset. Importantly, the software's auto functions could be turned off.

 

The software GUI presented a main capture screen which included a button to capture a still image. Using the computer's normal mouse the cursor was positioned over this button. When the machine runs it sends a left mouse click signal to the computer through its own (PS2) connection to the computer. The computer does not discriminate which mouse is doing the clicking and thus the cursor being positioned over the button activates the capture software routine - records the frame image and stores the resulting Bitmap file sequentially numbered.

 

* Nexxtech appears to be a house brand of The Source electronics stores in Canada.

 

POST PRODUCTION

I used Adobe's Photoshop, Premiere and After Effects for processing the still images and rebuilding the movie digitally. To capture a Super8 sound track I used an older Bell & Howell Filmosonic projector which had analog audio output. The camera used in the sound examples unfortunately was not blimped and sound was recorded using automatic gain.  I used Sound Booth to clean up the sound as best I could.

I processed, cropped, etc., in Photoshop preparing the still images for import as sequences into Premiere. In Premiere I built the digital version of the film original and in the case of Super8 sound films the sound track was synchronized.

While editing I discovered something I had not anticipated. While each frame is positioned in the gate and the claw disengaged during image capture the projector's film transport does not stop. The film continues to be transported. The film loops together with the film gate's pressure plate should prevent movement of the film during its short stop at the film gate. I observed this to be so but intermittently the film would move ever so little (<=1mm) that the result at real time speed induced a kind of "shake/flutter". I used After Effects to remove this effect. Not to be mistaken for the original camera shake which is all mine.

SAMPLE RESULTS

Note that the sample clip below has been reduced in size and compressed for the web. The embedded version plays mp4 version, the link opens a window to play QuickTime (.MOV) version.